Visited: Wednesday, August 19, 2026 — Sunny
Last time, I walked from Kibuneguchi Station to Kibune.
I stopped for lunch along the way and then headed to Kifune Shrine.
But—
there were so many people.
I probably could have visited the shrine if I had waited, but I still wanted to go to Kurama afterward.
So this time, I gave up on visiting the shrine and headed back to Kibuneguchi Station.
I took the Eizan Railway for one stop.
To Kurama Station.
And that’s where this story continues.
→ Part 1｜Summer in Kibune: Walking from Kibuneguchi
My Map for This Trip
I put the entire day’s route onto one map.
First, Kibune.
Then Kurama.
Across the mountain.
Back to Kibune.
And finally—
for some reason, Kurama again.
The map alone may be a little confusing, so I also put the day’s movements into a table.
Some stations appear more than once. That is not a mistake.
| No. | Place / Transport | What I Did |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Kyobashi Station | Changed from JR to the Keihan Railway |
| 2 | Demachiyanagi Station | Changed from the Keihan Railway to the Eizan Railway |
| 3 | Kibuneguchi Station | Got off and walked to Kibune instead of taking the bus |
| 4 | Fujiya | Early lunch |
| 5 | Kifune Shrine, Main Shrine | Gave up because of the crowds |
| 6 | Kibuneguchi Station | Took the Eizan Railway to Kurama |
| 7 | Kurama Station | Headed to Kurama-dera Temple |
| 8 | Kurama-dera Temple | Cable car, Tenporin-do, Main Hall and Reihoden |
| 9 | Okunoin Trail | Walked across Mount Kurama |
| 10 | Kibune | Returned to Kibune through the West Gate |
| 11 | Yui-no-Yashiro & Okumiya | Walked farther into Kibune |
| 12 | Kifune Shrine, Main Shrine | Tried again—still crowded |
| 13 | Kibuneguchi Station | Returned by bus |
| 14 | Kurama Station | For some reason, went one stop back in the opposite direction |
| 15 | Kuramaso | Ushiwaka set meal + draft beer |
| 16 | Kurama Station | Finally headed home |
| 17 | Demachiyanagi Station | Changed to the Keihan Railway |
| 18 | Sanjo / Sanjo Keihan | Changed to the Tozai Subway Line |
| 19 | Yamashina Station | Changed to a JR Special Rapid train. I got a seat ✨ |
Now, let’s start again from Kurama Station.
Arriving at Kurama Station Brought Back a Memory
I arrived at Kurama Station.
I arrived at Kurama Station on the Eizan Railway.
There were tengu both inside and outside the station.
From here, I headed toward Mount Kurama.
The moment I saw the station—
Ah. I remember this place.
I had been here before with my father.
It was a long time ago.
Normally, I hardly ever think about that day.
But when I actually came back to the same place,
“Ah, yes. This was it.”
Little by little, the memories came back.
Funny how that happens.
Now, let’s head to Kurama-dera Temple.
Today, I’m Taking the Cable Car
To Kurama-dera Temple.
🌐Official Website Kurama-dera Temple
I entered the grounds of Kurama-dera through the Niomon Gate
and climbed the stone steps.
Partway up, I took the cable car.
You can walk all the way up, but this time I chose the ¥200 cable car.
It’s a mountain.
You can walk up, but this time I used the cable car.
¥200.
It was running every 20 minutes.
At first, I thought not many people were going to use it, but as departure time approached, more and more people arrived.
I had already walked quite a long way from Kibuneguchi that day.
No need to push myself here.
If there’s something I can use, I’ll use it.
At this point, I had no idea that I would later end up crossing the mountain.
Even after getting off the cable car,
there was still more walking before reaching the Main Hall.
I continued through the greenery along a path lined with red lanterns.
Another Memory Came Back
As I continued uphill,
I came across a place that looked familiar.
A free rest area.
I took a short break at Senshin-tei,
a free rest area I found along the way.
There is also a shop here,
making it a useful place to rest during the walk through Mount Kurama.
I remember this place too.
When I came here with my father before,
he got tired along the way and waited for me at this rest area.
I continued alone toward the Main Hall.
That’s right.
This was the place.
A Short Break
The air conditioning is on.
Wonderful.
I finished the bottle of Salty Litchi I had with me.
Then I bought some handmade rusks.
Three bags for ¥1,140.
This time, I’m buying my souvenirs early.
When I visited Ohara before, I thought,
“I’ll buy them on the way back.”
By the time I returned, the shop was closed.
Lesson learned.
I’d also left my laptop at home today, so there was plenty of room in my backpack.
I put the rusks inside,
and started walking again.
Just like last time, I continued on alone.
As I walked,
little fragments of memories I had forgotten began to return.
To Tenporin-do
I entered Tenporin-do.
I took off my shoes and went inside.
Directly in front of me
was a large statue of Amida Nyorai.
……
It’s looking at me.
Somehow,
I felt as though it was staring straight at me.
A little scary.
No.
I haven’t done anything wrong.
Who am I making excuses to?
I added another coin to the offering box
and moved slightly to the side.
Maybe about three meters.
Then I looked at the face again.
Huh?
It looks different.
From the front, the face had seemed rather stern.
But from the side,
it looked very gentle.
To me, it even seemed somehow feminine.
It was the same Buddha statue.
I had only changed my viewing position slightly.
And yet the impression was completely different.
Interesting.
I stood there looking at it for a while.
Not Many People Went Inside
While I was there,
no one else entered Tenporin-do.
People walked past outside.
But they didn’t come in.
Maybe because you have to take your shoes off?
I don’t know.
But for me,
I’m glad I went inside.
It became one of the places that stayed with me most from this visit to Kurama.
To the Main Hall
I continued walking to the Main Hall.
I arrived at the Main Hall of Kurama-dera Temple.
I had intended to stop here,
but farther ahead was the entrance to the Okunoin Trail.
This is where my completely unplanned mountain crossing began.
There is a large open space in front of the Main Hall.
On the stone pavement is a star-like pattern.
This spot is sometimes introduced as a so-called “power spot.”
I stood in the center.
……
I felt nothing.
Actually, I stood here the last time I visited with my father too.
And that time—
I felt nothing.
Maybe this time would be different?
……
Nope.
Still nothing.
Too bad.
Perhaps some people really can feel something in places like this.
Apparently, I—
can’t pick up the signal.
Still, standing in front of the Main Hall after coming all the way up the mountain feels good.
Whether or not I can feel any mysterious “power” is another matter.
I’m satisfied simply to have made it this far.
I paid my respects,
then continued onward.
To the Reihoden Museum
I walked a little farther to the Reihoden.
Here, you can learn about the natural environment of Mount Kurama and see temple treasures.
There are Buddhist statues too.
And from these Buddhas—
I received no particular message.
Well.
It’s not as if the earlier Buddha actually said anything to me either.
I was the one who suddenly said,
“I haven’t done anything wrong.”
That’s all.
Ha ha ha.
So, What Now?
By the time I finished looking around the Reihoden, it was about 2:30 p.m.
What should I do from here?
Go back the way I came?
Or follow the Okunoin Trail, cross Mount Kurama and continue to Kibune?
I asked someone at the Reihoden.
“How long does it take to walk from here to Kibune?”
About 40 minutes.
However, I was told there were no streetlights on the mountain trail.
“If you’re planning to come back this way, you shouldn’t go any farther now.”
I see.
I definitely don’t want to be walking along a mountain trail after dark.
But—
I’m not coming back.
Once I cross the mountain, I’ll continue straight into Kibune.
I explained that,
and then—
from Kurama to Kibune.
I began a mountain crossing that had never been part of the plan.
After visiting the Reihoden, I continued straight onto the Okunoin Trail.
Soon, tree roots began covering the ground,
and what had started as sightseeing gradually turned into a proper mountain walk.
I had taken the cable car up from the Kurama side.
From there, I visited Kurama-dera and then followed the Okunoin Trail toward Kibune.
I call this a “mountain crossing,” but on this route I first used the cable car from Kurama Station before heading toward Kibune.
So this is not a route where you are climbing uphill the entire way.
That said,
it isn’t all downhill either.
There are stone steps and exposed tree roots, with uphill sections along the way.
By the time I finished the walk, I was pretty tired.
“It’s mostly downhill, so maybe it’ll be easy?”
No.
Not quite.
All right.
Here we go.
It Really Was a Mountain Trail
I started walking.
Tree roots, stone steps, then more mountain trail.
I checked the signs as I continued toward Okunoin.
My unplanned mountain crossing was still going.
Rather than a sightseeing path,
this is a proper mountain trail.
Stone steps.
Uphill.
Downhill.
Tree roots.
There are plenty of changes in elevation.
Walking sticks were available too.
When I first saw them,
I thought,
“I’ll probably be fine.”
Once I actually started walking—
I understood why the walking sticks were there.
The Tree-Root Path
Tree roots spread across the ground.
It’s one of those landscapes that feels distinctly like Mount Kurama.
I kept going, stopping to take photos.
But—
you should keep an eye on where you’re stepping.
And on this particular day,
there were horseflies too.
I was wearing long sleeves and long trousers.
I also had sturdy shoes on.
In the end, I was glad I was dressed that way.
What if it had been raining?
Personally, I don’t think I would choose this trail.
Going up and down wet stone steps would make me a little nervous.
That is simply
my own impression after actually walking the route.
Still Walking
I reached Mao-den in the Okunoin area.
From there, I continued down the mountain trail to the West Gate.
Beyond this gate is the Kibune side.
At last, I had walked all the way across the mountain from Kurama.
I continued through the mountain.
Toward the end, the trail kept descending,
and my legs were gradually getting tired.
Then, after a while—
I heard the sound of cars.
Ah.
The human world is getting closer.
I emerged from the mountain trail
and stepped out through the West Gate.
And there it was—
Kibune.
I had walked along the river here that morning.
Now I had returned to the same place
by crossing Mount Kurama.
So this is how the two places connect.
Only after walking it myself
did the map finally connect in my head.
Not “Someday”
This mountain trail—
was mostly downhill, but it wasn’t an easy walk.
There were stone steps.
Changes in elevation.
And places where I had to watch my footing.
Regardless of age,
I think it also depends on your physical condition that day and the weather.
So—
I can’t say,
“Anyone can do it.”
But as I walked, one thought came to me.
If there’s somewhere you want to go,
don’t just say, “Someday.” Go while your legs can still carry you there.
Being able to walk on my own two feet right now
is not something I should take for granted.
Don’t push too hard.
Use transportation when it’s available.
But—
where I can walk,
I want to try walking on my own two feet.
I think I’d like to travel that way a little more.
Back in Kibune, But…
I had crossed the mountain
and made it safely back to Kibune.
Time to go home?
No.
Not yet.
I continued farther along the river.
And then—
there were still more restaurants.
More kawadoko dining platforms too.
What? There are still more?
I feel like I thought exactly the same thing this morning.
Kibune.
It goes much farther than I expected.
After returning to Kibune through the West Gate,
I continued beyond the Main Shrine.
I walked a little farther toward Yui-no-Yashiro and Okumiya,
places I hadn’t visited earlier in the day.
To Yui-no-Yashiro
I headed to Yui-no-Yashiro at Kifune Shrine.
I visited Yui-no-Yashiro at Kifune Shrine.
Even after crossing the mountain, my detours continued.
Inside the shrine grounds were stones
and shrine structures associated with matchmaking and connections.
That day, I was carrying a small red drawstring pouch that I had received as osettai while walking the Shikoku Pilgrimage.
Inside were lots of one-yen coins that I had exchanged for at temples along the pilgrimage.
Whenever I visit temples and find a small offering box along the path, I try to leave a coin whenever I can.
While crossing Mount Kurama, I had taken one-yen coins from this pouch and placed them in offering boxes along the way.
At Yui-no-Yashiro, I did the same thing.
I put my fingers into the pouch.
Picked up one coin.
Hmm?
This feels different.
I looked at it.
It was a five-yen coin.
Then I remembered.
A few months earlier, I had received several five-yen coins as change and added them to this pouch.
I had completely forgotten about them.
Almost everything inside was a one-yen coin.
And yet, when I casually picked one—
it was five yen.
And of all places,
I was standing at Yui-no-Yashiro.
Five yen in front of a deity associated with en—connections and good fortune.
Of course, it was just a coincidence.
But still—
what a coincidence.
So I put the five-yen coin straight into the offering box.
Perhaps a little good connection for my blog too?
Hee hee.
Then One More at Okumiya
I walked a little farther
to Okumiya.
Since I had accidentally offered a five-yen coin at Yui-no-Yashiro,
this time I deliberately chose
another five-yen coin.
I finished my visit.
And then—
I took out the Kyoto Lemonade I had bought from a vending machine on the way here.
I sat down for a break.
Cold.
Delicious.
My legs—
were starting to laugh.
On the way to Okumiya,
I bought a bottle of Kyoto Lemonade from a vending machine.
I drank it while taking a break at Okumiya.
After crossing the mountain and walking through Kibune,
I finally took the bus back to Kibuneguchi Station.
Kifune Shrine, Take Two
Since I had come this far,
I decided to try the Main Shrine again.
I had given up earlier in the day because of the crowds.
Maybe—
it would be a little quieter now.
……
There are even more people than this morning.
Right.
I gave up for the second time.
I came to Kifune Shrine twice in one day,
and gave up twice.
Some days are like that.
I don’t need to force myself to visit everything.
I can always come back.
This Time, I’m Taking the Bus
There was no way I was walking back now.
I waited for the bus.
The bus arrived—
packed.
Nope.
Not getting on that.
I let it go
and decided to wait for the next one.
This time, I was at the front of the line.
I boarded the next bus
and got a seat.
Looking behind me,
I could see that some people still couldn’t get on.
All day long, buses had been passing me as I walked.
At the end of the day,
I was very grateful to sit on one.
ICOCA worked too.
Back at Kibuneguchi Station
The bus took me back to Kibuneguchi Station.
Now then.
From here, I just need to take the train back toward Demachiyanagi.
Normally.
But today—
I’m taking a train in the opposite direction.
Destination:
Kurama.
The place I was just at.
Why?
I Want a Seat
The reason is simple.
I want a seat on the train home.
Instead of boarding a train from Kibuneguchi toward Demachiyanagi,
I went one stop in the opposite direction.
To the end of the line at Kurama Station.
Kurama is the terminal station—and also where trains heading back toward Demachiyanagi begin their journey.
Apparently, I wasn’t the only person with this idea.
We weren’t allowed to simply stay on the train and claim our seats.
Everyone had to get off at Kurama Station first.
So I got off too.
Then I boarded again when the train began its return journey.
I had the Eizan Railway one-day pass, the “Ee Kippu,” today.
One extra stop there and back—
for a seat.
I had just crossed a mountain.
At this point,
efficiency mattered less than—
a seat.
That morning,
I certainly hadn’t imagined I would be doing this.
If the lines on my map look strange,
they’re not wrong.
I really did travel like this.
And Then, in Kurama…
And with that,
this Stopover Journey should be over.
All I have to do now is get on the train and go home.
……
Except—
it’s evening.
And I’m getting hungry.
Since I’ve come all the way back to Kurama,
maybe there’s somewhere I can eat?
First restaurant.
Closed.
Oh.
Here we go again.
The familiar danger of having nowhere to eat.
Then I walked into the next restaurant.
And there,
at the very end of the day,
I came across a meal I hadn’t expected.
“Lightly seasoned, but not lacking in flavor.”
Of everything I ate on this trip,
this was one meal I would genuinely recommend.
→ Beauty & Taste｜Ushiwaka Set Meal at Kuramaso, Kurama
In the End, Maybe This Route Worked Out Quite Well?
This route wasn’t something I had carefully planned from the beginning.
I arrived at Kibuneguchi Station before noon and walked to Kibune.
I had lunch and went to Kifune Shrine.
Then I returned to Kibuneguchi Station and took the Eizan Railway to Kurama.
In Kurama, I took the cable car up, visited Kurama-dera Temple, and then followed the Okunoin Trail across the mountain back to Kibune.
There was quite a lot of going back and forth.
But after actually walking the route,
maybe this order worked out surprisingly well.
On the mountain trail from Kurama to Kibune, because I had taken the cable car up on the Kurama side, the route was mostly downhill overall.
If you enter from the Kibune side instead, the entrance can be a little difficult to find, and the route begins with a fairly steep climb.
And then there was Kifune Shrine in summer.
I went to the Main Shrine twice that day, once around midday and again in the evening, and on this particular day, it was actually more crowded in the evening.
Around noon, I probably could have visited the shrine if I had waited.
But at that point, I still wanted to go to Kurama and had no idea how long everything would take.
So I decided not to wait.
In the end, my route became:
Kibune before noon → lunch → Kifune Shrine → Kurama → cable car → Kurama-dera Temple → mountain trail downhill → Kibune again
After coming down the mountain, if you still have enough time and energy, you can continue farther into Kibune to Yui-no-Yashiro and Okumiya.
If not, you can skip that part and head back to Kibuneguchi Station.
And on the way home, you could even go one stop in the opposite direction from Kibuneguchi to the terminal at Kurama Station.
If there’s still time for dinner, eat near Kurama Station and then take a train from its starting point, giving yourself a better chance of getting a seat.
If finding dinner there looks difficult, don’t force it—just head back toward Sanjo and eat there instead.
……
Wait.
All I did was go back and forth,
but somehow—
was there actually some logic to it?
Ha ha ha.
My Step Count for the Day
25,121 steps.
And this time,
there were mountain trails.
Stone steps.
Changes in elevation.
By the time I was heading home,
my legs were trembling.
Still—
I had managed to walk all the way across Mount Kurama.
Right now,
I’m grateful for that.
Thank you, legs.
They still
put up with my demands.
But—
while they’re still willing to do that,
I think I should make good use of them.
I’ll go somewhere else I can walk.
And then—
I’ll make another stop along the way.
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